Saint-Lizier-d'Ustou (740m) to Aulus-les-Bains (750m)
We decided we'd try for an early start today so set the alarm for 6.45am and promptly turned it off again but we were still at breakfast at 8am. Phillip was kind enough to drive us to Saint-Lizier so we could resume our oddessy. His dog Porsche came for the ride and enjoyed his few minutes of freedom in the carpark, where we were dropped off, until he was terrorised by two local cats. We said our goodbyes and Phillip and Porsche left while we tried to figure out where the trail resumed. I asked the postmistress who had no idea - despite the fact that it is a tiny village, where we suspect not much happens, and the first marker was 20 metres away from the door of the postoffice in the main street.
We headed up steeply to Col de Fitte (1387m) which we reached after a couple of hours so took a cig break before climbing and traversing across a narrow path up to the ski station of Col d'Escots (1618m). Even though this was perhaps the nadir of our gastronomic adventures in France (mouldy bread and cheese) we none-the-less (after the removal of the mould) consumed it with considerable relish - yes, we were really hungry.
We then spent the next three hours perambulating around the ridges which culminated in a steep descent, beside a fantastic waterfall, to the valley floor.
We were nervous about the reception from Madame Dubois at the Gite Le Goulue seeing as we'd postponed our arrival twice. We are not sure if it was a cool reception from her and her husband, or whether they just don't say much normally, but we were thankful to smell good smells coming from the kitchen so we knew we were not completely in the dog box.
The house used to be a dance hall and/or casino back in the day. The owners have done a great job doing it up.
We were shown to a spotless bedroom - and the gorgeously tiled bathroom and shower room were also spotless.
After much greasing by Jeff and smooging of their cats by Both of us we felt we were given a partial reprieve.
We had beers and cigarettes in their garden before lovely hot showers and then a gorgeous dinner consisting of: first course - duck, foie gras and chestnut muffins (we are sure the French have a far more elegant name than muffins) served with a salad and edible flowers - all of which came from her garden; second course - salmon, a butter/hollandaise type of sauce, cabbage and rice; third course - a dense yoghurt decorated with seeds, a stewed fig and a sweet tart cum pudding thing - with a caramel sauce. All washed down with red wine and followed by coffee and hot chocolate in the garden.
Aulus-les-Bains (750m) loop walk via Etang de Guzet and Cascade d'Ars (1485m)
Jeff leapt out of bed at 7am to go and have a cig in the garden. It was still dark. He then walked to the village to see if the bakery was open - which it was not. The French are civilised and wait till it's light till they go and buy their bread.
Breakfast was the typical French - bread (that was trying to be toast) and homemade jams. One was made from rhubarb which we hadn't had before.
We set off in the cool morning a bit after 9pm. First port of call was the supermarket and bakery-cum-tabac-cum-bolangerie. We had to choose what we were going to have for our picnic lunch - and what food to eat is one of our major decisions to make each day. So it was 10.30am by the time we set off with our different types of chevre, ham, baguette, butter, biscuits, fruit and chocolate.
It took about an hour to get back to the spot where we left the GR10 yesterday. It was a steady climb up from the village to the lake - through mixed beech and pine forest. It was at the highest point above the lake that we stopped and had our nectarines.
The path undulated up and down for the next hour till we came out above the 3-tiered waterfall (Cascade d'Ars). We found a spot a between the first two tiers to have our yummy picnic. After about an hour Jeff decided it was beer-o'clock so we should start making our way down - but we were still 2 hours away from the beer.
We again finished the day sitting in the lovely garden at Gite Le Goulue having ciders and some new tobacco Jeff bought. Their cat, Actual, after going between Jeff and I, decided that he likes me best.
Dinner was delicious again - but as we were the only ones staying there - it was painfully quiet. The owners stay in the kitchen area, just off the dining room, waiting for us to eat each course, and there's no music playing. So we whisper and feel like each chew is heard. Jeff's been on a warning not to swear - and apart from calling the owners' cat a "tart", has done remarkedly well. We had: first course, a salad with purple flowers and toast with onions and fromage; second course, a lentil cassoulet with a piece of duck leg, sausage and hunk of pork each - as well as carrots, parsnips and potatoes from their garden; third course, a little tart pie with blackberries in the pastry and meringue on top. Yum. All washed down as usual with a pitcher of red wine and followed by hot chocolate for me and a coffee for Jeff.
Posted with Blogsy
No comments:
Post a Comment